Sunday 2 March 2008

Sunday in Istanbul

Got myself lost well and good running around Istanbul this morning. I meant to go for a long run, but then oriented myself on the wrong set of sky scrapers for my return trip, so it became rather longer - great for training! If a nice young man selling those sesame circles had not pointed me in the right direction, I would still be running - towards the Bosporus.

When to the Galatasaray Hamman in the afternoon, just off the Istiklal Caddesi. The guys in the men's department were as startled as I went I went into their bit by mistake....someone grabbed me by the arm and quickly wheedled me down the road and round the corner...

It's 10 or 12 years since I've been to one (the one next to the Grand Bazaar), and the prices have gone up from 10 USD to about 40 Euros. It was weird - last time I had worn glasses, except I had taken them off for the procedure, and needed to feel my way around the place a lot (stone everywhere; you really don't want to fall, especially if you are soapy). This time I could see without glasses - but still felt as insecure, and behaved, as if I could not see. Strange!

The masseuses' clothing has changed. Last time they were wearing big white bloomers (generally they are big girls); this time it was a pair of little black slips, and as I sat up after one set of soaping I was rather startled to be looking at a big red lipstick mark printed on the pubic hair part of the knickers. But then why shouldn't they have a sex life? Maybe they could share it around a little?

Did not much care for the piped music in the place, though it was suitable Arabic flute (ney) music. I just like it quiet. Generally it was fine, though.

When I went to the changing rooms of a clothes shop shortly afterwards to try on some stuff, I found them very busy, so tried it on outside. Looking in the mirror I found my hair a total mess! Muttered 'Oh God', and found a young Turkish lady with a very tight headscarf laughing at me. Managed to resist my temptation to say that maybe I could do with one of those just now.

Later picked up a film, and went to my favourite restaurant just off the Istiklal Caddesi, round the corner, near a mosque, a place where the homeless hang out and just past a huge building site. The 'Haci Abdullah Lokantasi'? Though the chicken on the chicken and mashed aubergine was rather dry, and the restaurant is dry anyway - no booze there.

So, apart from the run did not leave 'my' neighbourhood at all. It was great!

I see Carpetblog bought some special blankets somewhere in this neighbourhood - yesterday; they are mohair and something. I know she lives round here because the two breakfast places she recommends are almost next door to my hotel; and if I had not caught a brief glimpse of her in Tbilisi, I might have put together 'American' and two breakfast places within waddling distance of each other and come up with a ton weight. But she's not like that. Anyway, the guy who sold them must have been round here, but actually, they smell of sheep - and do I really need that in my flat? No, I don't need blankets either.

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